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Da Vinci’s Visions

The active mind explores what is unknown and undecided and is prepared to abandon what it was taught as fact in light of new knowledge. The beauty of the human mind is its logic which mirrors the logic of nature, what we now call the physical laws of nature. Da Vinci investigated everything. Looked for competing theories about the way …

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荷兰前卫服装设计师给大溪流美术馆带来一场科技的震撼 文: 李立婷

  当我们想到科技的创新,可能会立刻联想到电脑,汽车,手机等智能产品,结果我发现原来服装设计展览也可以给人们带来科技的震撼。33岁的荷兰服装设计师 Iris Van Herpen (爱丽丝.凡.哈本) 就是这么一个有才华的艺术家, 将服装,雕刻,和科技研究连接一身,展现在大溪流美术馆,这个美术馆位于美国密西根州的第2大城的大溪流市 (Grand Rapids, Michigan),是福特总统的故乡,也是美国境内荷兰移民的大本营,它离密西根湖的荷兰村很近,更是近年来举办闻名全美最大奖额的公共艺术比赛Artprize 的城市,每年10月前卫与震撼的公共艺术品都会被展示在街头的各个角落, 所以它就成了这次 Iris 在美国 举办展览的首选场地。此次设计师从她过去10年来的15个系列中挑选了45件作品。 一件件亮丽耀眼精心制作的服装摆满了展览室,远看仿佛仙姝曼舞,近看卻叫人目瞪口呆。 原来那闪闪发光的舞衣竟然是锐利的金属与镜子碎片打造而成,而那类似羽绒式的礼服则是硬邦邦的白色塑胶, 而那透明如白纱般的立领设计原来也是一个透明的丙烯雕塑, 理智上想想有谁可能穿上木头材质编织的洋装,或是尖锐的金属所拼成的舞衫呢? 在美术馆亮丽的灯光投射下,这一切都已不重要了。 同行的记者们从哑口无言到欣赏惊叹,发现 原来抛弃了传统的思考模式,服装设计也可以像立体雕塑一样呈现于美术馆中。   读了解说才知道设计师 Iris 原来是英国名设计师 Alexander McQueen (亚历山大.麦昆) 的学徒, 也是巴黎的高级定制和时尚联合会的成員(Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode 简称 FHCM)。近些年来她使用3D打印来创新制造出这些叹为观止的服装设计,她所要传递的是一种前卫和超出传统格局的创新思考方式,英文称 thinking out of the box。 在场我要求了个一对一的采访,设计师 Iris 的经纪人同意了。我站在设计师身旁感受到她那纤细瘦高的身材。她穿着一身黑色洋装,脸上也不施脂粉,站姿有点像芭蕾舞者,虽然不曾微笑却散发着不可置疑的美丽。 你可以感受到年轻的她对自己艺术创作的执着和追求,站在她面前才知道大师可以与年龄毫无关系。   我问她从事服装设计是否一直是她从小的志愿? 她回答:“其实我从小就是个芭蕾舞者,18岁上了大学我选择了艺术系,先学绘画和雕塑,有一天我上了一堂服装设计课,在课上我突然感觉到我可以将过去所学的舞蹈,绘画,和雕塑结合到服装设计上。我喜欢那种身体移动的感觉,所以最后我选择了将服装设计与艺术结合在一起。” 我看着她又问:“你只有33岁已经完成了这么多令人钦佩的作品,什么是你这一生最大的成就呢?”  她说: “这是一个很难回答的问题。我的人生就像一个旅程,走着走着, 有了许多令人惊喜的偶遇。首先是从阿姆斯特丹搬到了巴黎,对于服装设计师而言,巴黎是个神奇的城市,也是我人生的转折点,让我从此走向世界的舞台。 这次在美国的首次展出也是我人生的另一个转折点。我从荷兰开始巡回在欧洲各国展览,现在又要从大溪流美术馆开始在美国各地的巡回展览。” 由于时间有限我问了最后一个问题:“你可否给年轻人一些关于成功的建议?” …

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Cultural Conspiracy

 “The conscious and intelligent manipulation of the organized habits and opinions of the masses is an important element in democratic society. Those who manipulate this unseen mechanism of society constitute an invisible government which is the true ruling power of our country… It is they who pull the wires which control the public mind.” Edward L. Bernays   This operates …

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History According to Daad

Deep Sounding – History as Multiple Narratives is a group exhibition centered on the subjectivity and magnitude (or lack thereof) of historical narrative. In German, the word geschichte represents both ‘history’ and ‘story,’ the point on which the exhibition text is focused. There’s a push and pull here between works that are driven aesthetically and those that are driven narratively, …

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Venice 2019

The 2019 Biennale of Venice, with its successful and less successful artworks, undoubtedly achieved its aim of involving viewers by provoking our senses, challenging us with difficult installations, testing our intelligence and sometimes even bringing patience to a limit. In the French, Venetian, Philippines and Italian pavilions, to name just a few, one feels disoriented. Laure Prouvost in the French …

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BA Show Falmouth, May 2019

There is work from about 86 students in the catalogue, which is without page numbers. I take an hour and a half to see it plus a performance after lunch. No prices are next to the works. I start to notice what there isn’t; no overt politics, scarcely a mention of feminism, no climate change, very little autobiography, nothing about …

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Not There Yet

‘Cinema Between Two Worlds’ is a painting about six feet high, the subject being some people in a cinema, although the film screen looks more like a painting or a shot of a painting in the film. It is painted fluently, the seats look plush, it is a cinema with small tables between seats, and two young men are turning …

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Writing Returns to Art

Ex Libris was curated by Dr Ryya Bread and the preview was full of people, many of them artists who knew one another, and the event had a lively buzz which erupted after the introductory talk. Each work had the writing that inspired it also on the wall, although it was not always exhibited at a good height for reading. …

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London Pays Homage

Paintings by these three artists are well known to me from images in books, but I still have a such a strong urge to see the actual works that I am willing to spend considerable time, money and energy to get myself to London from Cornwall. Even an English breakfast that is so lukewarm and disappointing that I tell an …

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Too Invisible a Narrative

Downstairs Chesney has a 3 screen video making a loud roaring sea sound. On the left a lighthouse, in the centre an arrow shape, on the right a buoy with flashing light, seen at various times of day and night. It makes an impression, the dangers at sea, the immense power of the sea is evoked. Upstairs she has acres …

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